Fabrics and Materials for Custom Sportswear: A Buyer’s Reference
Fabric is the first specification that constrains every other one. It decides which decoration methods will work, how much a garment weighs, how it behaves after washing, what a mill will agree to supply, and how small a run can be. This hub explains fibre families, knit and woven construction, GSM, stretch, shrinkage, colourfastness and print compatibility, then turns them into a sampling and test checklist you can hand to a supplier.
If you already have a decoration method in mind, read the compatibility section first and then work backwards to fibre and construction. If you have no fabric yet, start at the specification fields and use the comparison tables to build a shortlist. Every numeric range on this page is indicative: confirm it on the actual base cloth before it becomes a line in your tech pack.
The six fields a fabric specification must contain
A fabric specification is not a mood board. It is the minimum set of facts a mill, a sample room and a printer need in order to produce the same thing twice. Six fields do most of the work, and leaving any one of them out is what turns a quotation into a negotiation later.
Composition. Give every fibre as a percentage, including the elastane share, and give rib, collar and waistband trims separately. A body described as “cotton blend” is not comparable between two suppliers. A rib with a different elastane share will shrink differently from the body even when both are called 95/5.
Construction. Name the structure: single jersey, interlock, rib, fleece, French terry, mesh, warp knit, woven, seamless circular knit. This determines hand, stability, opacity and how a print sits. It is the field most often missing from a first enquiry, and the one that explains most “the sample feels different” disputes.
Weight (GSM) with a tolerance. Grams per square metre is useful only alongside construction. Agree a tolerance – a few per cent either way – because mill lots vary, and a specification without tolerance gives both sides an argument they do not need.
Usable width or tubular diameter. Knits may be tubular or open-width. Usable width drives marker efficiency, which drives how many metres one garment consumes, which drives cost. Two fabrics with the same GSM can produce different consumption figures for this reason alone.
Colour reference and shade standard. Name a colour system and a reference, and state whether trims must match the body exactly or approximately. A “navy” that exists only as a screen image is not a specification. Ask whether a lab dip is needed and who approves it.
Finish and performance requirements. Say whether the fabric is brushed, peach-finished, wicking-treated, pre-shrunk or otherwise processed, and name the tests and tolerances that matter: shrinkage, colourfastness, pilling, stretch and recovery. A finish is part of the fabric, not an optional extra, and it changes how decoration behaves.
Add a seventh field in practice: the mill or stock-lot reference and dye-lot number. It is not a performance property, but without it a reorder cannot be matched. We keep it on the same card as the approved sample for exactly that reason.
Adjectives are not specifications. “Premium cotton jersey” can describe anything from a compact combed 180 GSM single jersey to a loose carded 140 GSM one. Every adjective in a brief should be converted into a measurable field before it is sent to a supplier.
Fibre families and what each one actually does
Fibres are usually discussed as if one were simply better than another. In custom production they are a set of trade-offs across comfort, print compatibility, dimensional stability, care and availability. The descriptions below are working knowledge for a buyer, not a textile science text, and they assume the fibre is made into a knit unless stated otherwise.
| Fibre | Behaviour that matters in a small run | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | A cellulose fibre valued for hand feel, breathability and print receptivity. Combed cotton removes short fibres and gives a smoother, less pilling surface than carded cotton. Untreated cotton knits commonly show their largest dimensional change on the first wash, often quoted in the 3 to 5 per cent band for single jersey; treat that as a starting point for a test request, not a specification. Cotton absorbs moisture readily and dries slowly, which is why a cotton tee can feel heavy in a high-sweat use. It is the most reliable ground for direct-to-garment printing because the ink sits well on the fibre. | Team and promotional tops, casual hoodies, direct-to-garment prints |
| Polyester | A synthetic fibre with low moisture absorbency, good dimensional stability and strong colour retention under dye-sublimation. It is the base of most performance and team kits. The trade-offs are static, odour retention if the knit is dense and poorly finished, and a different hand from cotton. Hydrophilic finishes can improve comfort but change with washing. Sublimation needs a high polyester share and a light ground; a dark or cotton-rich base cannot produce the same result. | Sublimated team kits, running and training tops, all-over prints |
| Nylon (polyamide) | Stronger and more abrasion resistant than polyester at a comparable weight, with a slightly higher moisture regain and a softer hand. It is common in outer layers, swim and some compression garments. It costs more, has weaker UV resistance in some constructions, and can be more sensitive to heat during pressing. Where a buyer wants a technical feel without a polyester look, nylon is often the reason a quote moves. | Outer shells, swim, abrasion-prone panels |
| Elastane (spandex) | Almost never used alone. A small share – commonly in the 5 to 20 per cent band depending on the garment – provides stretch and recovery in jerseys, rib trims and compression knits. It is the component most often damaged by excessive heat during pressing or curing, and it loses recovery over repeated high-temperature washing. A blend that feels right in the hand can still fail a recovery test after washing, which is why we ask for the test on the exact base cloth. | Yoga and studio wear, compression, rib cuffs and waistbands |
| Regenerated cellulosics | Viscose, modal and lyocell are produced from dissolved cellulose. They drape well, feel cool and take dye beautifully, but they are weaker when wet and can shrink or distort if the finish is not controlled. Bamboo-labelled fabric is usually a viscose process, not a mechanical bast fibre; marketing claims about inherent antimicrobial behaviour should be treated as claims requiring test evidence rather than as a material property. | Lifestyle layers, soft-hand fashion pieces |
| Wool and merino | Temperature regulation and odour resistance make fine merino useful in base layers, at a significantly higher cost and with more demanding care. Felting and shrinkage are the risks, so a machine-washable claim should come with the treatment and a test report. For a small custom run, wool is usually a deliberate product decision rather than a substitute for a cotton or polyester knit. | Base layers, cold-weather and premium programmes |
| Recycled fibres | Recycled polyester (often rPET) and recycled cotton can perform close to their virgin equivalents, but batch-to-batch consistency, colour depth and available minimums differ. A recycled-content claim needs a documented chain of custody from the supplier; a fabric described as recycled without that documentation is a marketing statement, not a verifiable one. | Programmes with a stated sustainability requirement |
Blends are their own material
A 65/35 polyester-cotton blend is not halfway between two fibres in every respect. The polyester component improves dimensional stability and reduces first-wash shrinkage, while the cotton component improves hand and moisture absorption; the resulting print behaviour depends on which fibre dominates the surface. A three-component blend with elastane adds recovery but also a heat budget that constrains pressing. When a specification quotes a blend ratio, the useful follow-up question is always what the blend is intended to achieve – a print result, a hand feel, a price point, or a shrinkage tolerance – because a different ratio can often reach the same goal with better availability at low quantity.
Recycled-content claims need paperwork
Recycled polyester and recycled cotton are widely available, but the word “recycled” covers different feedstocks and different documentation. If a programme makes a public claim, ask for the chain-of-custody document that supports it and check that the document names the fabric you are actually buying. A general supplier statement about offering recycled options is not evidence for a specific lot. This is an area where a cautious specification protects the buyer as much as the manufacturer.
Construction and weight
If composition tells you what a fabric is made of, construction tells you how it will behave. The table gives indicative GSM bands for constructions commonly used in small custom sportswear runs. They are starting points for a conversation with a mill, not acceptance criteria: a mill’s own specification sheet and a physical swatch outrank them.
| Construction | Indicative GSM | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | 140 to 200 | The standard weft knit for tee shirts. Distinct face and back, curls at cut edges, and shows the most first-wash length change. Light weights can be sheer in pale colours. |
| Interlock and double knit | 200 to 300 | Two needle beds produce a stable, denser cloth that resists curling and show-through. Heavier per square metre at the same apparent thickness, so cost and freight weight rise. |
| Rib and trims | 220 to 400 | Used for cuffs, collars and waistbands. Needs its own composition and shrinkage agreement; a rib that grows after washing ruins the neckline of an otherwise sound garment. |
| Fleece and French terry | 250 to 400 | Loopback or brushed interiors for hoodies and warm-ups. Brushing changes hand, insulation and pilling behaviour, and adds a variable that must be locked in the approved sample. |
| Mesh and warp knits | 90 to 180 | Open structures for ventilation panels and linings. Snagging and dimensional stability during cutting are the usual problems; a decorative print rarely sits well on an open mesh. |
| Woven fabrics | 90 to 250 | Stable and structured, used for shells, shorts and outerwear. Shrinkage behaviour, seam slippage and minimum order quantities differ substantially from knits. |
| Seamless and circular knits | Varies | Produced on circular machines with minimal cut-and-sew. Efficient for certain base layers, but size range, graphic placement and minimums are fixed by machine setup. |
Why the same GSM feels different
Two 180 GSM knits can behave nothing alike. An interlock is denser and more stable, resists edge curl and reduces show-through, but it consumes more mass per garment and dries more slowly. A single jersey at the same weight is lighter in the hand, more prone to length shrinkage on the first wash, and more likely to be sheer in a pale colour. This is the single most common misreading of a specification sheet, and it is why we ask which construction before discussing a GSM number.
Trims need their own specification
Rib cuffs, collars and waistbands are separate fabrics with their own composition, GSM and shrinkage. A body and a rib that shrink at different rates produce a neckline that waves or a cuff that tightens after washing, even when both were individually approved. Write the trim specification next to the body specification and wash-test them as an assembled garment, not as separate swatches.
Seamless is a machine decision, not just a look
Seamless circular knitting can reduce cut-and-sew operations for base layers, but it fixes the size range, the placement of any graphic and the minimum quantity to the machine setup. If a design needs a large centred print or an unusual size spread, a cut-and-sew knit is usually the more flexible route for a small run.
Performance properties and how they are tested
A test name is not a result. The useful part for a buyer is knowing what each test measures, what it does not measure, and which question to ask when two reports disagree. The methods named below are widely used reference families; we describe them as things to request from a supplier or test house, not as certifications we hold.
| Property | What the test actually does | What to ask for |
|---|---|---|
| Dimensional stability | Wash the approved sample under an agreed cycle, measure length and width before and after. Methods such as AATCC 135 or ISO 6330 describe the conditions; the point for a buyer is to agree the cycle and the tolerance in writing. | Length change, width change, twist, skew |
| Stretch and recovery | Extend the fabric to a defined elongation, hold, release, then measure how much of the original length returns. A fabric that stretches but does not recover gives a garment that bags at the knee or elbow. | Elongation percentage, recovery percentage, growth after repeated cycles |
| Pilling and abrasion | Surface fuzzing and pill formation are assessed with a pilling box or Martindale-type apparatus. Dense polyester knits and loose cotton surfaces fail in different ways; ask which method was used before comparing two reports. | Pilling grade, appearance after a defined cycle count |
| Colourfastness | Test to washing, rubbing (crocking), light and perspiration separately. A deep shade can pass a wash test and still transfer onto a light trim. ISO 105 and AATCC methods are the usual reference families. | Change in shade, staining of adjacent fabrics, dry and wet rubbing grade |
| Opacity and show-through | Place the fabric over a standard light and dark backing. Pale single jersey at a low GSM is the most common surprise, particularly for yoga and studio garments where the pose changes the stretch. | Visual grade under defined lighting and extension |
Agree the conditions before comparing numbers
A shrinkage figure is meaningless without the wash cycle, temperature, drying method and number of cycles. A colourfastness grade is meaningless without the specific test and the adjacent fabrics used. When two suppliers quote different numbers, the first question is not which one is better but whether they measured the same thing. We ask for the method and the conditions to be written on the report, and for the test to be run on the exact base cloth that will be cut.
What a test report cannot tell you
A report describes a sample under defined conditions. It does not guarantee every metre of a bulk lot, it does not cover a change of dye lot, and it does not describe how a printed area will behave after washing if the print was added after the fabric was tested. Where the decoration is heavy – a large plastisol area, a dense embroidery, a full-coverage transfer – wash the finished garment, not only the cloth.
Fabric and decoration compatibility
This is the section that prevents the most rework. Decoration is constrained by the fibre, the ground colour, the artwork and the heat the fabric can tolerate. Choose the fabric first and the method second and you may find the design has to change; choose them together and the constraints become design decisions.
| Method | Usually a good match | Check or avoid | Why it fails |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screen printing (plastisol) | Good on cotton and cotton-rich knits; workable on blends | Check on high-stretch knits and on dark grounds needing an underbase | Thick ink film can crack where the fabric stretches; large solid areas feel heavy on a light tee. |
| Direct to garment | Best on high-cotton, pretreated grounds | Avoid on high-polyester and on untreated dark grounds | Dark garments need pretreatment and a white underbase; wash results depend on the exact base cloth. |
| Dye sublimation | Requires high polyester content and a light ground | Avoid on cotton-rich or dark fabrics | The dye bonds to polyester, so a cotton blend gives a washed-out result; all-over graphics are the usual reason to choose it. |
| Embroidery | Good on stable, denser knits and wovens | Avoid large areas on light or high-stretch knits | Dense stitching stiffens the panel and can pucker; a chest badge behaves very differently from an all-over design. |
| Direct to film and heat transfer | Flexible across many fibre types | Check heat budget on elastane blends | Pressing temperature and dwell time are the risk: too much heat damages elastic recovery even when the print looks fine. |
| Patches and applique | Good where a raised, durable mark is wanted | Check on very light knits and on wash-heavy garments | A stiff patch on a light jersey creates a visible pull line; edge finish needs its own wash assessment. |
The three constraints worth memorising
Sublimation needs polyester and a light ground. The dye bonds to polyester under heat, so a cotton-rich base produces a weak, faded image and a dark base cannot show the design at all. All-over graphics on team kits work because the whole premise is a polyester light ground.
Direct-to-garment needs a cotton-rich, pretreated surface. A dark garment requires pretreatment and a white underbase to hold colour. Wash performance depends on the exact base cloth, which is why a result on one cotton jersey does not transfer automatically to another.
Heat is a budget, not a setting. Any pressing or curing step spends temperature and time against the fabric. Elastane blends are the usual casualty: the print looks correct on the day and the panel loses recovery after a few washes. Agree the temperature and dwell time with the printer and test the finished garment.
The Fabric and Decoration Selector scores eight base cloths against six decoration methods for a specific end use, climate, weight preference, artwork type and ground colour. It runs entirely in your browser and produces a shortlist you can paste into a request for quotation. This table explains the reasoning behind the recommendations; the tool applies it to your combination.
Matching fabric to end use
End use converts a list of fabric properties into a shortlist. The table is deliberately approximate: it describes the families that usually work, not a substitute for sampling.
| Use case | Fabric family | Decoration implication | Failure to test for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Team kits and jerseys | Polyester-dominant interlock or mesh, often 140 to 180 GSM | Sublimation for all-over graphics; numbers and sponsors need consistent placement across a size run | Colour continuity on reorders, snagging, and a shade match between body and trim |
| Yoga and studio | Cotton or nylon blends with elastane, usually 200 to 280 GSM | Small marks only; avoid large stiff decoration across high-stretch panels | Opacity under extension, recovery after washing, waistband roll |
| Running and training | Light polyester knits or meshes, often 90 to 160 GSM | Reflective transfers or small prints placed away from chafe zones | Moisture behaviour, seam feel, and heat budget for any transfer |
| Hoodies and warm-ups | Fleece or French terry, 280 to 400 GSM | Screen print or embroidery on stable panels | Brushing consistency, rib shrinkage, pilling on the face |
| Kids and schoolwear | Cotton-rich durable knits with a stable finish | Screen print or embroidery; check any small-part trims | Wash durability, colourfastness, and any safety requirements for the destination market |
The pattern across all five rows is that the failure is rarely the fibre itself. It is an interaction: a stretch garment that becomes sheer, a brushed face that pills where a strap rubs, a rib that grows after washing, a deep shade that transfers onto a light trim, a transfer applied at a temperature the elastane could not tolerate. Sampling the finished garment under realistic use finds these; approving a flat swatch does not.
What fabric choice does to cost and MOQ
Fabric affects cost in four separate places, and buyers usually only see the first. Consumption is the most direct: GSM, usable width, marker efficiency and the number of panels determine how many metres one garment uses. A heavier cloth costs more per metre and adds more mass per garment. Waste rises when a size run is spread across many sizes or when a print placement forces an inefficient marker. Processing rises with finishes, brushing, pre-shrinking, lab dips and any decoration pretreatment. Logistics rises with weight, because freight is charged on the shipped order, not on the unit price.
Minimums are where small runs most often hit a wall. A garment MOQ of 60 pieces does not mean the fabric can be made in a 60-piece quantity. Custom knitting, custom dyeing and bespoke colour matching usually carry mill minimums expressed in kilograms or rolls, frequently far above what a small programme consumes. The practical consequence is that low-quantity orders are usually built from available stock fabrics: the colour card is finite, the GSM is whatever is in stock, and a reorder may draw from a different dye lot. Ask about the fabric minimum at the same time as the garment minimum, not after the design is finished.
None of this means a heavier or more technical fabric is a mistake. It means the choice has to be made with the whole order in view. A 320 GSM fleece is right for a winter club hoodie and wrong for a 200-piece promotional giveaway that has to ship by air. The Budget Range Estimator shows which choices move a unit cost; the Landed Cost and Margin Calculator adds freight, duty and your own margin. Both require you to enter your own figures – neither contains a Fexwear price.
What we see in RFQs
Four recurring problems, from real enquiry threads
A GSM figure with no construction. A request that says "180 GSM cotton, premium quality" cannot be quoted or sampled reliably. The same weight in single jersey and interlock produces two different garments, and "premium" is not a measurable property. We ask which structure, what width, what finish, and what shrinkage tolerance before we discuss a number.
Fabric chosen after the artwork. A buyer falls in love with an all-over photographic design, then chooses a cotton-rich dark tee. Sublimation needs polyester and a light ground; direct-to-garment on dark cotton needs pretreatment and a white underbase; neither gives the originally imagined result. Choosing fabric and decoration in the same meeting avoids most of these rewrites.
A sample approved on a different base cloth. The most expensive version of this problem: a proto sample is made from a convenient stock fabric, approved, and then bulk is cut from a different dye lot or a different mill quality. The print reacts differently, the hand changes, and the shrinkage is not what was measured. We ask for the sample on the exact bulk base cloth.
A custom fabric assumption on a small run. A 60-piece programme is usually built from available stock fabric, not a custom knit or a bespoke dyeing. That limits the colour card and the GSM to what is in the warehouse. Requests that assume a custom Pantone match across all trims often have to be re-scoped once stock availability is checked.
These are process observations, not complaints about buyers. Someone specifying a first custom run is being asked to make decisions that normally sit with a fabric technologist, a print technician and a production planner. The purpose of this hub is to put the questions in one place so they can be answered before a sample is made rather than after bulk is cut.
Our own reference points are mill specification sheets, controlled wash-test notes and feedback collected in the sample room before a bulk run is approved. When an article here quotes a blend ratio, a GSM band or a care instruction, it is checked against a physical swatch and a written test rather than a supplier brochure. Where a cheaper alternative will not behave the same way, we say so instead of letting the substitution look equivalent on paper.
Sampling and test checklist
Hand this to a supplier as part of the specification, or use it as the agenda for a sample-approval meeting. It is written for a small run; a full compliance programme will need more, and a destination market may impose requirements that are not listed here.
- Record the exact fabric reference, mill or stock-lot code, and dye-lot number on the approved sample card.
- State composition as percentages of each fibre, including the elastane share and the rib or trim composition separately.
- State GSM with a tolerance, and state the construction (single jersey, interlock, fleece, woven) alongside it; GSM alone is not a specification.
- Record usable width or tubular diameter, because it drives marker efficiency and therefore consumption.
- Agree the shrinkage tolerance in length and width, and the wash cycle used to measure it.
- Wash the approved sample on the exact base cloth, then measure it again before approving bulk cutting.
- Request colourfastness results for washing, rubbing and perspiration for each deep shade; specify the method used.
- Check opacity over a light and a dark backing, and again under stretch for close-fitting garments.
- Confirm the decoration method against the composition, the ground colour and the artwork size before the sample is made.
- Agree a heat budget – temperature and dwell – for any pressing on elastane blends.
- Confirm stock availability and the minimum purchase unit for the fabric, not just the garment MOQ.
- Keep the approved sample, the spec sheet and the colour reference together for the reorder.
Approve the sample on the exact base cloth that will be cut, then wash it and measure it again. A sample approved on a convenient stock fabric is a picture of a different garment.
Selected reading from the archive
The library contains several hundred articles that touch on fabric. This is a deliberately short, grouped selection – not a dump of every link. Each group answers a different question, and the full archive remains available through the Fabrics category and the site XML sitemap. Older articles were written at different times; where a figure has aged, the guidance on this page takes precedence.
Fibres and blends
Articles that explain what a fibre actually does in a finished garment, from ring-spun cotton to recycled nylon.
- What Is Terry Cloth? Guide to Cotton Terry Cloth and Terry Cotton Fabric
- 60% Cotton / 35% Polyester / 5% Spandex fleece Training Pants: The Wholesale Buyer’s Unbiased Deep Dive into Performance, Profit Sourcing
- Cotton/Polyester Fleece Blends Training Pants: The Wholesale Buyer’s Deep Dive Into Performance, Profit, and Practical Sourcing
- Polyester/Spandex blends Compression Pants: The Wholesaler s Deep Dive into Performance Fabric Science Sourcing Strategy
- 85% Organic Cotton / 15% Recycled Polyester Heavyweight Fleece Embroidered Sweatshirts: The Wholesale Buyer’s Deep Dive Guide to Premium, Sustainable Performance
- Recycled Cotton/Recycled Polyester Blends Embroidered Sweatshirts: The Wholesale Buyer s Ultimate Technical Guide to Sustainable Performance Profitability
- 50% Polyester / 25% Cotton / 25% Rayon (Tri-blend) Embroidered Hoodies: The Wholesale Buyer’s Comprehensive Guide to Performance, Profit Sustainability
- Recycled Cotton/Recycled Polyester Blends Training Pants: The Wholesale Buyer’s Technical Blueprint for Performance, Profit Planetary Responsibility
- Recycled Polyester/Spandex Blends Equestrian Apparel: The Wholesale Buyer’s Unfiltered Technical Playbook for Profitable, Sustainable Sourcing
Construction and weight
How the same composition behaves differently once it is knitted, brushed, woven or bonded.
- Do Nike Techs Shrink? I Ran a 40-Wash Controlled Test on Tech Fleece and Tech Knit
- 85% Cotton / 15% Polyester Fleece Joggers: The Wholesale Buyer’s Unfiltered Guide to Performance, Profitability Sourcing Mastery
- The Unfiltered Truth About Cotton/Polyester Fleece Teamwear: Your 2024 Guide to Smarter Wholesale Sourcing Decisions
- What Is Jersey Knit Made Of? A Manufacturer s Guide to Fabric Selection and Sourcing
- Athletic Shorts Fabric Matchmaker: GSM, Weaves, and the 8-Fabric Performance Matrix
- Terry vs French Terry: The Fabric Decision Guide for Custom Sportswear Buyers
- How to Shrink Polyester Jersey: A Guide for Brands, Teams, and Buyers
- Knit vs Woven Fabric: A Manufacturer s Guide for Sportswear Buyers
- Blank Baseball Jersey Buyer’s Guide for Teams Streetwear: Sub-$20 Picks, Fabric Truths, and DIY Customization
Performance and care
Wash behaviour, shrinkage, pilling, breathability and the tests that reveal a problem early.
- Polyester/Nylon Blend Fishing Apparel: The Wholesale Buyer s Complete Technical Guide to Sourcing Durable Performance Gear
- Recycled nylon/spandex blends Equestrian Apparel: Decoding Performance, Durability Profit Potential for Wholesale Buyers
- Cotton vs Polyester Hoodie: An Activity-First Guide to Fabric, Care, and Eco Trade-offs
- Can Nylon Shrink? Lab-Tested Data, Blend Care Tables, and a Flowchart to Know for Sure
- Do Cotton Poly Blends Shrink? A Data-Backed Guide to Ratios, Dryers, and Prevention
- Ringspun Cotton vs Cotton: A Buyer s Longevity Shrinkage Lab Guide
- The Brushed-Inside Care Buyer’s Guide: Fabric Science, Comparisons, and Wash Protocols That Preserve Loft
- Breathable Mesh Fabric vs. Linen and Cotton: Ratings, Synonyms, and a Hands-On Selection Guide
- Beyond Lululemon: The Fabric-Science Guide to Yoga Pants Pilling (And How to Stop It)
Selection and comparison
Side-by-side comparisons for choosing between two cloths that look almost identical on a swatch.
- Bamboo/Organic Cotton/Spandex blend Yoga Wear: The Wholesale Buyer’s Unfiltered Guide to High-Performance, Sustainable Activewear Sourcing
- Organic Cotton/Recycled Polyester Blends Embroidered Hoodies: The Wholesale Buyer’s Definitive Technical Guide to Sustainable Performance
- Recycled Cotton/Recycled Polyester Blends Joggers: The Wholesale Buyer s Unfiltered Guide to Performance, Profitability Proven Sourcing
- 58% Polyester / 32% Cotton / 10% Spandex Training Pants: The Wholesale Buyer s Deep-Dive Guide to Performance, Profit Perfect Fit
- 80% Polyester / 20% Spandex Running Apparel: The Wholesaler’s Unfiltered Guide to Performance Fabric Science Sourcing Mastery
- Unlock Competitive Advantage with Nylon/Spandex Blend (e.g. 87/13) Yoga Wear: The Wholesale Buyer’s Technical Mastery Guide
- Decoding 87% Nylon / 13% Spandex Leggings: The Wholesale Buyer’s Ultimate Performance Fabric Guide for Profitable Sourcing
- Unlocking Wholesale Success: The Definitive Guide to 65% Polyester / 25% Cotton / 10% Spandex Yoga Wear for Savvy Buyers
- Recycled Nylon/Spandex Blend Sports Bra: The Wholesale Supplier’s Ultimate Technical Guide to Performance, Profit Planet
Limits and sources
Where this guide stops
The ranges are indicative. GSM bands, blend ratios and shrinkage figures here describe families of fabric. A mill specification sheet, a physical swatch and a test on the exact base cloth always outrank them. Do not copy a range from this page into a tech pack as an acceptance criterion.
Standards are named as references, not held certifications. ISO, AATCC, ASTM and OEKO-TEX appear as method families or things to request from a test house. This page does not claim that Fexwear holds any certification, and it does not report a test result for your garment.
This is not a quotation. No Fexwear prices, minimums or lead times appear here. A price depends on a confirmed fabric, decoration, quantity and size run. Use the free calculators for your own figures and request a quote once the specification is fixed.
It is not compliance advice. Labelling, chemical restrictions, import classification and sustainability claims vary by destination and change over time. Check them with a qualified broker, test house or adviser for your market.
Sources. Mill specification sheets, controlled wash-test notes and sample-room feedback collected before bulk approval, plus published reference methods for the test families named above. Reader corrections and questions go to the editorial desk and are recorded in the changelog.
Frequently asked questions
Is a higher GSM always better quality?
No. GSM is mass per square metre, not a quality grade. A 160 GSM compact interlock can outperform a 200 GSM loose single jersey for opacity and stability, while a heavy fleece is simply wrong for a hot-weather training top. Compare GSM only within the same construction, and judge the result by hand, opacity, shrinkage and the intended use.
Can I sublimate on a cotton or dark garment?
Not in the way the process is normally understood. Sublimation dyes bond to polyester under heat, so a cotton-rich ground gives a weak, washed-out image and a dark ground cannot show the design without a light base. For cotton and dark garments, direct-to-garment with a white underbase, direct-to-film, or screen printing are the realistic routes, each with its own wash and hand-feel trade-offs.
What percentage of elastane do I need?
It depends on the garment, not on a universal number. Light comfort stretch and rib trims sit at the low end, while compression and studio garments need more. What matters as much as the percentage is recovery after washing, so ask for a stretch and recovery result on the exact base cloth rather than specifying a percentage in isolation.
Why can Fexwear not quote a fabric from this page?
Because these ranges describe families of fabric, not a confirmed stock lot. A quotation depends on the mill reference, composition, GSM, width, colour, quantity and decoration method. The ranges here tell you what to ask about; the confirmed sample and specification are what make a price meaningful.
Which tests should I actually pay for on a first small order?
At minimum: dimensional stability after washing on the exact base cloth, colourfastness to washing and rubbing for each deep shade, and a visual opacity check under stretch if the garment is close fitting. Add stretch and recovery for elastane blends and pilling for brushed or loose surfaces. A full test suite on a 60-piece run is rarely proportionate; a targeted one is.
How do I keep a reorder the same shade?
Keep the mill reference, dye-lot number, approved sample and colour reference together, and state the shade standard in the specification. Stock fabrics can be replaced by a different dye lot between orders, so ask about continuity before promising a customer that a reorder will match. This is a record-keeping problem more often than a manufacturing one.