Fleece vs French Terry: A Sourcing Guide for Custom Sportswear Buyers

When sourcing custom hoodies, sweatshirts, or casual wear, the choice between fleece and French terry is one of the most fundamental—and impactful—decisions you’ll make. These two fabrics form the backbone of the premium activewear and streetwear market, but they are not interchangeable. The wrong choice can lead to a final product that feels off-brand, performs poorly for its intended use, or fails to meet your customers’ expectations for fit and feel. As a buyer or brand owner, understanding the core differences in construction, performance, and cost is essential for communicating effectively with your manufacturer and specifying the right garment for your line.

This guide cuts through the terminology to give you a practical, side-by-side comparison from a production perspective. We’ll break down what each fabric is at the yarn level, how that translates to wearability and drape, and most importantly, the specific sourcing and customization considerations that affect your bottom line and end-product quality.

Core Construction: The Fundamental Difference

At its heart, the distinction between fleece and French terry comes down to one thing: the treatment of the loops on the fabric’s reverse side. Both are knitted fabrics, typically using a jersey stitch, but their finishing processes diverge completely.

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French Terry is characterized by its looped back. The loops created during knitting are left intact, resulting in a textured, slightly raised surface on the inside. This is the classic, authentic sweatshirt feel—substantial but breathable, with a natural, casual drape.
Fleece (often called “polar fleece”) is created by brushing the fabric. The loops on the reverse side are mechanically broken and napped, creating a dense, soft, plush pile that covers the entire interior surface. This process, called “fleece brushing,” traps significantly more air, making it much warmer.

This initial construction choice dictates everything else: weight, warmth, durability, shrinkage, and how the fabric takes customization like printing or embroidery. A common point of confusion is that “fleece” is sometimes used generically for any brushed knit, but in manufacturing, the distinction is precise. Always request a fabric swatch from your factory to confirm the construction.

Head-to-Head Comparison: Properties & Performance

Below is a detailed breakdown of key attributes for sourcing decisions. This table highlights how the fabrics perform in real-world conditions and during production.

Attribute	French Terry	Fleece (Brushed)
Feel & Hand	Textured inside (loops), smooth outside. Crisper, more structured drape. Classic “sweatshirt” feel.	Uniformly plush and soft on both sides. Extremely soft, fluffy hand. Drapes more heavily and loosely.
Warmth & Insulation	Moderate. The looped back provides some air cushioning but is not a insulator. Better for mild climates or layering.	High. The brushed pile creates a thick layer of trapped air, offering superior insulation. Ideal for cold weather standalone wear.
Breathability	Higher. Air can circulate through the loops, allowing moisture vapor to escape more readily. Better for moderate activity.	Lower. The dense pile forms a barrier that traps heat and moisture. Can feel clammy during high-exertion activities.
Moisture Wicking	Fair to Good. The cotton base (common in Terry) absorbs moisture but dries slowly. Performance depends on fiber blend (e.g., cotton/polyester).	Poor to Fair. The pile can absorb sweat but holds it against the skin. Best for static use, not intense cardio.
Weight & Density (GSM)	Typically 280-360 GSM for premium. Feels dense but not overly bulky.	Can range widely (300-500+ GSM). Plush feel makes it feel heavier than its actual weight. High-GSM fleece is very heavy.
Drape & Fit Profile	Holds shape better. Provides a cleaner, more tailored silhouette. Less likely to “swallow” the wearer.	Drapes loosely and softly. Can appear bulkier and more “slouchy.” Fit is heavily influenced by weight.
Shrinkage	Moderate-High (especially 100% cotton). Requires pre-shrinking (sanforizing) to control fit. Must be specified.	Moderate. The brushing process can stabilize the fabric slightly, but cotton-rich fleece will still shrink. Poly fleece shrinks less.
Durability & Pilling	Loop surface is more resistant to pilling. abrasion resistance is good, but loops can snag on sharp objects.	Brushed surface is prone to pilling with friction and washing. Durability depends on yarn quality and brushing intensity.
Print/Embroidery Suitability	Excellent. Smooth outer face provides a ideal canvas forscreen printing, DTG, and embroidery. Minimal texture interference.	Good, but challenging. The plush pile can “shadow” or absorb ink, making details less crisp. Requires a firm underlay for embroidery. Plastisol prints work best.
Cost & Production	Generally lower cost. Standard construction, less processing. Faster production cycles.	Higher cost. Additional brushing step adds time and machinery wear. Brushing quality varies significantly by mill.
Common End Uses	Classic crewnecks & hoodies, fashion basics, loungewear, light-weight zip-ups, team uniforms for non-cold climates.	Cold-weather outerwear, heavy-duty hoodies, performance layers (technical fleece), premium loungewear, “cozy” branding.

Deep Dive: French Terry for Your Brand

Production & Sourcing Notes

French terry is the workhorse of the custom apparel world. Its versatility makes it a safe and popular choice for a first custom run. When specifying French terry, focus on these variables:

Fiber Content: 100% cotton is traditional but shrinks more. A cotton/polyester blend (e.g., 80/20, 60/40) reduces shrinkage, improves colorfastness, and can lower cost. For performance brands, consider blends with Oeko-Tex certified modal or Tencel™ for added softness and sustainability claims.
GSM (Grams per Square Meter): This is your primary lever for “heft.” For a premium feel, specify 320-340 GSM. A lighter 280-300 GSM is suitable for summer-weight hoodies or fashion layering pieces.
Loop Size & Consistency: Request a swatch to check loop uniformity. Large, uneven loops can look cheap and affect print stability. A tighter, more uniform loop is a sign of better knitting machinery.
Yarn-Dyed vs. Piece-Dyed: For heather or melange effects, you must use yarn-dyed yarns before knitting. This increases cost but offers a unique aesthetic. Piece-dyeing is standard for solid colors.

Deep Dive: Fleece for Your Brand

Fleece commands a premium position. It signals warmth, comfort, and often a higher price point. However, not all fleece is created equal. The brushing process is an art, and quality varies dramatically.

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Brushing Intensity: Ask your factory about the “brush count” or nap height. A shorter, denser nap is more durable and less prone to pilling than a long, lofty nap. For performance fleece, a lightweight, tightly brushed fabric (260-300 GSM) can be surprisingly warm without bulk.

Polar vs. Performance Fleece: Standard “polar” fleece is the classic plush. Performance fleece often includes treatments like moisture-wicking finishes, anti-pilling coatings, or stretch yarns (elastane). If you’re marketing for activity, specify these technical attributes.

Recycled Content: Many mills now offer fleece made from recycled PET bottles. This is a powerful sustainability story. Verify the percentage (e.g., 50% recycled poly) and whether it has relevant certifications like GRS (Global Recycled Standard).

Anti-Pill Finish: Insist on a post-brushing treatment to reduce pilling, especially for dark colors. This is a critical quality control point.

Sourcing Scenarios: Which Fabric for Which Brand?

Your choice should be driven by your brand’s identity and your customer’s end-use. Here are common scenarios:

For a Streetwear Brand Focused on Silhouette: Choose French Terry. Its superior drape and structure allow for cleaner, more architectural fits. It holds prints sharply and ages with a desirable worn-in look rather than pilling into oblivion.
For a Gym or Outdoor Team Uniform: Choose Performance Fleece (mid-weight, 280-320 GSM with wicking finish). It provides essential warmth for sidelines or post-workout, and the technical finish aligns with an athletic identity.
For a Premium Loungewear Line: Either can work, but the approach differs. A heavyweight, ultra-soft French terry (380 GSM+) offers a structured luxury. A mid-weight, plush fleece offers a “cloud-like” softness that is immediately perceivable.
For a Budget-Conscious Bulk Order (e.g., event giveaways): French Terry is almost always the more cost-effective choice, both in fabric and in decoration. The reliable print surface reduces rejection rates.

The Customization Checklist: What to Specify to Your Factory

Once you’ve decided on the fabric family, you must communicate precisely. Vague requests lead to samples that miss the mark. Use this checklist for your tech pack or inquiry.

Fabric Type & Construction: “French Terry, 320 GSM, 100% cotton, ring-spun yarns” OR “Polar Fleece, 300 GSM, 60/40 cotton/polyester, anti-pill brushed finish.”
End Use: Clearly state the intended use (e.g., “fall fashion hoodie,” “ski lodge pullover,” “gym warm-up”). This guides the factory’s recommendations for weight and blend.
GSM Target: Provide a specific number. Don’t just say “heavy” or “light.”
Pre-Shrinkage Treatment: Mandate sanforizing or equivalent for 100% cotton fabrics to ensure consistent fit after washing.
Color Matching: Provide a physical Pantone or lab dip reference. Note that fleece’s pile can make colors appear slightly darker/heavier than on smooth French terry.
Decoration Method: State your primary decoration (screen print, DTG, embroidery). Ask for a sample on your chosen fabric to test detail clarity and hand feel.
Special Finishes: Specify any garment washes (e.g., enzyme wash for softness), garment dyeing, or garment brushing.

Making the Final Decision: Key Questions for Your Brand

Before you finalize your fabric choice, answer these questions honestly:

What is the primary climate and season for this garment? If the answer is “cold” or “winter,” fleece has a strong advantage.
What is the core activity of the wearer? Static warmth/lounging favors fleece. Layering or mild activity favors French terry.
What is your brand’s aesthetic? Clean, minimalist, and tailored? French terry. Cozy, plush, and enveloping? Fleece.
What is your target price point? French terry generally allows for a more accessible retail price. High-end fleece commands a premium.
How will you decorate it? For intricate, multi-color graphics or fine embroidery, French terry is the safer, more predictable canvas.

There is no universally “better” fabric. The better fabric is the one that aligns with your specific product story and your customer’s expectation.

Need custom versions of any style covered here? Our sportswear factory handles everything from tech pack review to bulk delivery. Request a sample or quote.