For anyone standing 5 feet 8 inches tall, finding the right shirt size can feel like navigating a maze of inconsistent charts and varying fits. This challenge multiplies for brands, gyms, and retailers ordering custom activewear in bulk. A “medium” from one factory can be a “large” from another, leading to poor fit, customer returns, and wasted inventory. This article cuts through the confusion, providing a practical framework for determining shirt sizes for a 5’8″ male from both a consumer’s and, more critically, a B2B buyer’s perspective. We’ll break down standard measurements, fit types, and the essential manufacturing considerations you must communicate to your sportswear factory to ensure your custom order fits your target audience perfectly.
Quick Summary: For a 5’8″ male with an average build (chest 38-40″, waist 32-34″), a US Medium or EU 48-50 is the standard starting point. However, the final size depends entirely on the garment’s intended fit (slim, regular, relaxed), its fabric composition (high-stretch vs. rigid cotton), and the brand’s target demographic. For custom orders, you must provide precise body measurements to your manufacturer, not just a letter size, and order fit samples before production.
The Foundation: Understanding Body Measurements vs. Garment Sizes
Before discussing “what size,” you must separate the wearer’s body from the garment’s finished dimensions. A shirt size is a proxy for a set of body measurements, but it’s the garment’s laid-flat measurements that your factory actually controls. For a 5’8″ male, the two most critical measurements are chest width (or chest circumference) and body length.
Key Measurement Points for T-Shirts & Activewear Tops
When sourcing custom apparel, always specify these in your tech pack or inquiry:
- Chest Width (Laid Flat): Measure from armpit to armpit, then double for full circumference. For a 5’8″ male with a 40″ chest, the shirt’s finished flat chest should be 20-21″ for a trim fit, or 21.5-22.5″ for a relaxed fit.
- Body Length (Center Back): From the nape of the neck to the hem. Standard lengths for a 5’8″ male range from 28″ (cropped) to 32″ (standard).
- Sleeve Length: From shoulder seam to cuff. This varies significantly by style (short sleeve vs. long sleeve).
- Shoulder Width: Between shoulder seams. A crucial point for fit; too narrow restricts movement, too wide looks sloppy.
Practical Tip for Buyers: When defining your size chart, base it on the target customer’s body measurements, not the garment’s. A fitness brand for lean athletes will have different tolerances (e.g., +1-2″ ease) than a brand targeting a broader, casual audience (e.g., +3-4″ ease). Industry textile associations often provide standard sizing databases as a starting point, but customization is key.
Fit Profiles: Why “Medium” Means Different Things
The same body measurements can yield very different wearing experiences based on the intended fit. This is the primary reason for sizing confusion and the first decision point for your custom order.
| Fit Type | Description | Recommended Chest Ease* | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slim / Trim Fit | Close to the body, tapered. Minimal excess fabric. | +1.5″ to +2.5″ over body chest | Performance wear, fashion-forward activewear, underlayers. |
| Regular / Classic Fit | Straight cut, standard comfort. The most common “medium.” | +2.5″ to +3.5″ over body chest | General casual wear, team uniforms, corporate apparel. |
| Relaxed / Oversized Fit | Loose, generous cut. Often longer in length. | +4″ to +6″+ over body chest | Streetwear, loungewear, certain gym aesthetics. |
*Ease = the added measurement in the garment over the actual body measurement for comfort and movement.
For your custom order, choosing a fit profile is a strategic decision that defines your product’s market position. A brand selling high-intensity workout gear will almost always specify a slim or athletic fit to avoid fabric flapping during movement. A brand in the loungewear or athleisure space may opt for a relaxed fit for comfort. You must instruct your factory on the desired fit profile, not just a measurement chart.
Fabric & Construction: The Hidden Variables
Two shirts with identical measurements can fit differently due to fabric and build quality.
Also read: Good Fabric for Dresses: A Manufacturer’s Guide to Performance Textiles
Fabric Stretch & Composition
- 100% Cotton (Rigid): No stretch. The fit must be precise. Over time, it may shrink (especially if not pre-shrunk), so you must account for wash shrinkage in your specs—typically 3-5% for garment-dyed cotton.
- Cotton-Polyester Blends (e.g., 60/40): Minimal mechanical stretch from the polyester. More stable, less shrinkage, slightly more forgiving fit.
- Performance Knits (e.g., with Spandex/Lycra): Significant 4-way stretch. The garment can be cut closer to the body (lower ease) yet still allow full range of motion. This is critical for compression wear or fitted activewear.
Manufacturing Note: Always request a fabric composition specification from your factory. For performance claims (e.g., “moisture-wicking,”), ensure the fabric is certified by a standards body like OEKO-TEX® for safety and performance.
Key Quality Markers That Affect Perceived Fit
- Rib Knit Crewneck vs. Self-Fabric Neckline: Rib knit is tighter and more structured, which can affect how the shirt sits on the shoulders and chest.
- Double-Stitched Hems: Adds weight and structure to the bottom hem, preventing it from curling and changing the shirt’s hang over time.
- Side Seams vs. Tubular Construction: Tubular (seamless body) can have a different drape and may run larger in circumference compared to side-seamed construction, which allows for more precise shaping.
Sourcing Custom Apparel: What to Communicate to Your Factory
For a wholesale buyer, the question “what size for 5’8″ male” translates into a production specification. Guessing or sending a sample from another brand is not enough. You must provide a clear, unambiguous tech pack.
The Essential Checklist for Your Custom Order Inquiry
Use this list when communicating with your sportswear manufacturer. Missing any of these points leads to errors and costly sample revisions.
- Target Body Measurement Data: Provide the actual chest, waist, and height distribution for your intended wearer. “For males 5’8″ with a 38-40″ chest.”
- Desired Fit Profile: “Slim fit with 2″ chest ease,” or “Relaxed fit with 5″ ease.”
- Fabric & Weight Spec: “180gsm combed cotton, 100% cotton, pre-shrunk.” Weight (gsm) is critical for feel and drape.
- Full Measurement Chart: Provide a complete size chart (S, M, L, XL) with all laid-flat measurements (chest, length, sleeve, shoulder). Specify how these grade up from your sample size (usually Medium).
- Fit Sample Approval Process: State that you will review and approve a physical fit sample in your specified size (e.g., a Medium) before bulk production. Never skip this step.
- End Market & Usage: “For a gym retail store, worn as a casual top,” or “For a corporate team, worn untucked.” This context helps the factory’s pattern maker make subtle adjustments.
Production Considerations: Discuss Minimum Order Quantities (MOQs) for your size range. Factories often have MOQs per style/color, not per size. If you need a small run of all sizes for a soft launch, look for a factory with flexible low-MOQ options, though unit cost will be higher. For large team orders (e.g., 500 shirts), you can often negotiate better pricing but must guarantee size distribution upfront.
Common Pitfalls & How to Avoid Them
- Assuming US Sizes Are Universal: A US Medium from a US brand is not the same as a Medium from a factory in Vietnam or China for export. You are defining the Medium. Use your own measurement chart.
- Ignoring Regional Preferences: European and Asian markets often prefer a different fit (e.g., shorter sleeves, higher armholes) than North American markets. If selling internationally, you may need to develop region-specific patterns.
- Not Accounting for Shrinkage: If using untreated cotton, specify a pre-wash or add 3-5% to your final measurements. The factory should advise based on their fabric source.
- Ordering a Single Sample Size: Always approve a sample in the size that will be most critical for your brand (often Medium). But also, if possible, check the grading to the next size up and down to ensure the proportions scale correctly. A poorly graded size set is a common flaw in custom production.
Conclusion: From Question to Action
The question “what shirt size for a 5’8″ male” has a technical answer rooted in precise measurements and intentional design choices. For a custom sportswear buyer, the real task is translating your customer’s needs into a factory-ready specification. Start with the body data, define the fit and fabric, and mandate a physical fit sample approval. This disciplined approach eliminates guesswork, ensures consistency across your size range, and protects your brand’s reputation for quality and fit.
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