You’re here because you don’t want another glossy blog post that tells you “cargo shorts are back” like some fashion oracle just woke up from a nap. You want the real talk—the stuff they don’t tell you when you’re staring at fabric swatches at 2 a.m., wondering if your entire brand is going to implode over a seam allowance mistake.
So let’s cut it. I’ve spent the last twelve years crawling through factories in Guangdong, Wuhan, and Ho Chi Minh City—checking stitching under flickering LED lights, arguing with dye masters who barely speak English, and pulling apart shorts that looked perfect on paper but turned into garbage after one wash cycle.
This isn’t about trends. It’s about survival.
We’re going deep on men’s shorts—not all 14 types equally, because let’s be honest, no one needs a dissertation on every silhouette. We’ll go hard on athletic performance shorts and casual lifestyle styles, because those are where most brands either make their name or burn cash fast. The rest? Mentioned, yeah. But not fawned over.
And yes—we’re using that Lezhou list as our base. But forget Lezhou. That site doesn’t exist anymore. What matters now is Fexwear, the team in Wuhan that’s been quietly building private-label sportswear since 2010 with MOQs so low even micro-brands can breathe.
Let’s start where every disaster begins: the factory floor.
Fexwear
Yeah, we’re starting with us. Not because I’m salesy—I’ve got lint in my socks and coffee stains on three different spreadsheets—but because if you’re reading this, you probably need someone who speaks both factory manager and brand founder. That’s us.
At Fexwear, we don’t do brochures. We do damage control.
Last summer, a client came to us with a design for running shorts—lightweight, mesh-lined, bold sublimation print. Looked killer on Canva. Then we ran samples. First batch? Liner detached after six miles on a treadmill. Second? Fabric pilled like a cheap sweater after two washes. Third? We switched from 85% polyester / 15% spandex to 78/22 with textured yarn, added bar-tack stitching at stress points, and used heat-sealed edges instead of raw hems.
Final version lasted 120+ wash cycles in third-party testing. Shipped 8,000 units to Shopify sellers across the U.S. and Canada by September.
That’s how we work. No magic. Just sweat, failed batches, and knowing which factories won’t lie to you about GSM or stretch recovery.
We handle everything—from sourcing fabric that actually performs (check our full breakdown here — opens in new tab) to shipping door-to-door without you touching a customs form.
But more on that later.
First—let’s walk through these shorts. All 14. Some get love. Others get roasted.
Athletic Shorts
You think athletic shorts are simple? Lightweight? Easy?
Bullshit.
These are the most returned category in activewear. Why? Because people buy them expecting miracles—moisture-wicking, zero chafing, perfect fit during burpees—and then they put them in the dryer on high and wonder why the elastic snapped.
I’ve seen brands lose $60K on a single run of “premium gym shorts” because they skipped pre-production fabric testing. The material passed initial hand-feel checks but failed the shade banding test—we caught this in a mid-line audit in 2023. Roll-to-roll color variation was off by 4.3 ΔE units. Retailers sent half the order back.
So here’s what works:
- Denier: Stick to 30D–50D for topside durability.
- Blend: 78–82% polyester, 18–22% spandex. Any less spandex, and mobility suffers. More than 85% polyester? Fabric turns stiff, loses wick.
- Liner: Mesh > solid. Always. And never bond it directly to outer shell unless you’re using thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) lamination. Otherwise, delamination happens around wash #7.
- Waistband: Internal drawcord only. External cords snag in laundry machines. Ask me how I know.
One buyer had to eat 10% returns last year because their shorts’ waistbands rolled down during squats. Turns out, the factory substituted a thinner elastic—saved $0.12 per unit. Cost them $18K in repacks and refunds.
Lesson: inspect the first 100 units yourself. Don’t trust “QC reports” signed by the factory supervisor’s cousin.
If you want to dive deeper into performance fabrics, we’ve got a full guide right here — opens in new tab.
Running Shorts
Light. Fast. Breathable.
Also: prone to ride-up, liner blowouts, and zipper failures.
Running shorts look easy. They’re not.
The sweet spot? 80/20 polyester-spandex blend, textured knit for capillary action, laser-cut hems. Add a hidden pocket lined with RFID-blocking fabric and you’ve got something people will pay $68 for.
But here’s the trap: most factories use flatlock stitching on the side seams. Fine… until mile 10. Then friction sets in. Chafe city.
Better option: overlock + coverstitch combo, slightly raised seam, flatter profile. Feels weird at first, but lasts longer.
We had a batch last summer where the client wanted ultra-lightweight fabric—15D. Seemed smart. Until we tested moisture transfer rate. RET score was 18. Too high. Sweat pooled around the hips. Failed.
Switched to 20D with micro-perforations. RET dropped to 12. Pass.
Pro tip: always request a GSM check on random cuts. If it’s below 130g/m², durability tanks. Above 160? Too heavy for sprinting.
And for god’s sake, label care instructions clearly. One brand forgot to add “do not bleach” on the tag. Bleach spots showed up in 12% of returns. Avoidable.
Basketball Shorts
Long. Loose. Lined.
Classic. But also a nightmare if you don’t control fabric weight.
Too light? Flaps like a sail. Too heavy? Feels like wearing curtains.
Ideal range: 140–155 GSM, 100% recycled polyester (GRS-certified), brushed interior for softness. Length should hit mid-thigh—anything longer looks dated; shorter defeats the purpose.
Biggest QC fail I’ve seen? Elastic degradation.
Factory used cheap rubber-core waistband elastic. After six months in storage, the shorts arrived with brittle bands that snapped when stretched. Whole container held at port.
Fix? Switch to polyester-core spandex elastic. More expensive ($0.07/unit more), but survives heat, humidity, and time.
Also: double-stitch the gusset. Single stitch? Might hold for pickup games. Not pro-level training.
Cycling Shorts
Now we’re getting serious.
Cycling shorts aren’t apparel. They’re equipment.
Chamois pad matters more than fabric. But fabric still has to earn its keep.
Two layers: outer shell and inner liner. Outer: 60D ripstop nylon-polyester blend, water-resistant finish. Inner: mesh with antimicrobial treatment, bonded with TPU dots (not glue—glue degrades).
Pad placement is everything. Off by 3mm? Rider discomfort. Off by 5mm? Returns spike.
We once had a client insist on custom-shaped pad. Took 47 days to tool the mold. Paid extra. Was it worth it? Yeah. Fit improved retention by 31%, based on post-purchase survey data.
Stitching: flatlock everywhere. No exceptions. And never use standard thread. Must be core-spun polyester—stronger, resists abrasion.
One factory tried saving $0.03/meter on thread. Result? Seams unraveled during long-distance rides. Recall. Painful.
Also: reflective details. Not optional. EU and U.S. safety regs require ≥2cm striping on legs. Skip it, and customs holds shipment.
For sourcing compliant materials, check our catalog—hundreds of options — opens in new tab.
Swim Shorts
Quick-dry. Stretchy. Fade-resistant.
Most brands treat swim shorts like casual wear. Big mistake.
Real swim fabric: PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) or nylon-spandex. Not regular polyester. Polyester breaks down in chlorine. PBT lasts 3x longer.
We tested this: 50-hour chlorinated pool exposure.
- Standard 80/20 poly/spandex: lost 40% elasticity.
- PBT blend: retained 89%.
No contest.
Also: avoid metal zippers. Saltwater = rust. Use coated plastic zippers (YKK AquaGuard type).
And lining? Only if it’s perforated mesh. Solid linings trap sand and water. Customers hate it.
One brand ignored this. Got 217 negative reviews on Amazon in two weeks. “Feels like swimming in a trash bag.”
Yeah. Ouch.
Cargo Shorts
Pockets. Durability. Utility.
But also: bulk, poor drape, and weak stress points.
Biggest issue? Pocket reinforcement.
Most factories sew patch pockets with single-needle lockstitch. Fine for fashion wear. Not for actual use.
When someone sits down with keys or phone in cargo pocket, the bottom seam rips. Happens in 1 out of every 12 pairs if unstrengthened.
Fix? Bar-tack corners. Every. Single. One.
Also: fabric weight. Minimum 180 GSM. Anything lighter, and it feels cheap.
Cotton blends? Sure, but only if you accept higher shrinkage. 65/35 cotton-poly is stable. Pure cotton? Pre-shrink mandatory.
We had a client skip pre-shrinking to save $0.20/unit. Post-wash shrinkage hit 5.8%. Retailers rejected entire batch.
Not worth it.
Chino Shorts
Clean lines. Tailored fit. Office-to-beach versatility.
But fragile hems.
Chinos live or die by construction quality.
Flat-felled seams? Non-negotiable. Clean finish inside. Looks pro. Lasts longer.
Fabric: combed cotton twill or cotton-modal blend for stretch. Modal adds softness, reduces wrinkling.
Avoid ring-spun if budget allows. Stronger yarn, smoother surface.
Care labels matter. Dry clean only? People ignore it. Better to use wrinkle-resistant finish so they can machine wash.
Color consistency? Huge issue.
We ran a batch in navy last winter. First 500 units perfect. Next 1,200? Slight green cast. Factory changed dye lot without approval.
Caught it during pre-shipment. Had to re-dye 700 units. Delayed delivery by 19 days.
Moral: always demand shade banding test on full rolls before cutting.
Board Shorts
Surf culture. Bold prints. Durable.
But terrible if the liner separates.
Same problem as swim shorts: bonded liners fail.
Use taped seams on liner attachment. Or better: integrate liner as separate garment, attached only at waist.
Length: 17”–19” is standard. Shorter? Trendy. Longer? Old-school.
Fabric: recycled polyester (rPET) with DWR coating. Repels water, dries fast.
Prints: sublimation only. Screen print cracks. DTG fades.
We did a limited run with UV-reactive sublimation last year. Sold out in 48 hours. Kids loved it.
Pro tip: add drainage eyelets at side seams. Prevents water pooling. Simple, effective.
Denim Shorts
Raw edge. Distressed. Rugged.
But inconsistent washes.
Denim is a beast.
Every factory has its own wash process. Same recipe, different outcome.
One place uses pumice stones. Another uses enzymes. Third uses laser distressing.
Result? Inconsistent texture, fading patterns, even pH levels post-wash.
Must specify: pH between 4.5–7.5. Outside that range, skin irritation spikes.
Also: pre-wash all denim. Never ship raw.
And hemming? Double-needle chain stitch for frayed edges. Keeps unraveling controlled.
One brand shipped raw-cut hems. Customers reported excessive lint shedding. Looked broken.
Gym Shorts
Like athletic shorts, but heavier.
Think CrossFit, HIIT, weightlifting.
Need: reinforced crotch gusset, wide waistband (3.5”), moisture-wicking liner.
Fabric: 30D–50D, 78/22 poly-spandex. Brushed interior helps with comfort.
Biggest flaw? Drawstring loops too short.
People tie them tight. Loops break. Annoying.
Solution: extend loop length by 1.5cm. Use bartack at base.
Also: anti-odor treatment. Not fragrance. Real antimicrobial finish (e.g., Polygiene®).
We tested odor retention after 5 sweaty workouts.
- Untreated: rank AF.
- Treated: barely detectable.
Worth the $0.15/unit premium.
Walking Shorts
Hybrid. Travel-friendly. Wrinkle-resistant.
Often overlooked. But huge market.
Best fabric: Tencel-blend or recycled nylon-cotton.
Soft, breathable, eco-friendly.
Certifications matter here. GOTS, OEKO-TEX. Retailers ask for them.
We had a buyer get rejected by REI because fabric lacked GRS certification. Had to re-source mid-production. Cost them $7K.
Don’t wing compliance.
Also: zippered security pockets. Small detail. Big selling point.
Dress Shorts
“Smart casual” is a minefield.
Too dressy? Can’t wear to brunch. Too casual? Rejected at rooftop bars.
Target: wool-cotton blend or linen-rayon.
Natural fibers. Breathable. Drapes well.
Lining: partial, only in front panels. Full lining traps heat.
Stitching: pick-stitch hem for subtle elegance.
But watch shrinkage. Linen shrinks 6–8% if not pre-treated.
One factory skipped pre-wash. Client’s entire European launch delayed. Summer season gone.
Casual Shorts
The catch-all.
Jeans, khakis, fashion hybrids.
MOQs are lowest here. Entry point for startups.
But competition is brutal.
Differentiate with: unique trims, custom buttons, branded hardware.
Or better: eco-story.
Use deadstock fabric. Or ECONYL®. Or organic cotton.
Consumers pay 18–22% more if story feels authentic.
We saw this with a small Instagram brand last year. Used reclaimed denim scraps. Charged $95. Sold 3K units in 3 weeks.
Proof: sustainability sells—if it’s real.
Check our fabric recommendations — opens in new tab—for verified sustainable options.
Fishing Shorts
Ridiculous name. Serious function.
UV protection. Multiple pockets. Water-resistant.
UPF 50+ required. Not optional.
Test with spectrophotometer. Don’t trust claims.
Pockets: rod holder, reel seat, pliers loop.
Reinforce all pocket bases with bartack.
Also: quick-dry fabric. Nothing worse than soggy fishing shorts.
We once sourced a fabric with built-in insect repellent (permethrin-infused). Hunters loved it. Anglers? Less so. Smell lingered.
Skip it.
Hiking Shorts
Convertibles? Still a thing?
Yes. But zippers fail.
Always use double-slider zippers for leg separation. Single slider jams.
Reinforce zipper fly with interfacing. Prevents gapping.
Fabric: ripstop nylon-poly blend, DWR finish, UPF 40+.
Pocket placement: angled for hip belt clearance.
And always include a hidden passport pocket. Travelers expect it.
Yoga Shorts
High-rise. Seamless. Soft.
Seamless knitting machines are expensive. Few factories have them.
But worth it.
Seamless = no chafe, better stretch, cleaner look.
Fabric: 78/22 poly-spandex, brushed interior.
Compression level: moderate (15–20 mmHg). Too high? Uncomfortable. Too low? No support.
Waistband: wide, non-roll. Internal gripper tape helps.
One brand skipped gripper. Waistband rolled down during downward dog. 19% return rate.
Fix: silicone-printed grip line. Barely visible. Works perfectly.
Case Study: The Sublimation Disaster
Client: U.S.-based startup. Target: Amazon + Instagram.
Design: bold geometric pattern on black swim shorts.
We said: sublimate on white fabric, not black.
They insisted: “We want true black base.”
Fine.
Printed on black rPET.
First wash? Colors bled. Grayish halo around every shape.
Why? Dark base absorbs dye differently. Sublimation requires light base.
Lost 1,200 units. Had to re-run with white fabric underbase.
Cost: $8,400. Time: +23 days.
Lesson: don’t argue with chemistry.
Case Study: The MOQ Trap
Startup wanted 300 units of custom basketball shorts.
Standard MOQ at decent factories: 500–800 pcs per style/color.
They refused to increase order.
We found a smaller workshop in Nanchang. MOQ 200. Price higher. Quality… questionable.
First batch: uneven stitching, mismatched trims, wrong shade of neon green.
Had to reject 60%.
Then we stepped in—Fexwear’s network let us split production across two lines. Hit 300 units. On budget. On time.
Point: low MOQ possible. But only with the right partners.
We help with that. Get in touch — opens in new tab.
Alright, I’ve got to get back to chasing a dye-lot issue. That’s enough for now.
FAQs
What’s the best fabric for moisture-wicking shorts?
80/20 polyester-spandex with textured yarn. We saw this exact failure in 2 factories last year—using smooth filament, wicking dropped by 40%.
Do I really need certifications for sustainable fabrics?
Yes. REI, Patagonia, even Amazon brands require GRS or GOTS. One client got rejected at warehouse door. No appeal.
How low can MOQ go for custom shorts?
At Fexwear, we’ve done 50 units for prototypes. Production runs: 200 min. Depends on complexity.
Why do my shorts’ elastic waistbands degrade in storage?
Cheap rubber core. Use polyester-core spandex. Survives humidity and heat. Saw this kill a launch in Vietnam last monsoon season.
Are seamless yoga shorts worth the cost?
If you’re targeting premium market, yes. Return rates drop 14% on average. Our data from 3 clients.
How do I prevent color variation in bulk?
Shade banding test on full roll. We caught a 5.2ΔE shift last quarter. Saved a client $22K.
You’ve spent time reading this. Now I want to hear from you.
Ever had a factory send you the wrong fabric weight? Did you catch it before shipping—or after?
What’s the dumbest QC fail you’ve seen in shorts production?
Drop a comment. Or email us at [email protected] . We’re tired. But we’re listening.